A Weekend Learning to Ski at Mt Ruapehu, Whakapapa

We love visiting the Tongariro National Park, whether it’s for hiking, rafting or getting onto the snow. Between roughly late June and October, snow depending, Mt Ruapehu becomes a winter wonderland and the best reason to head to the central North Island. It offers some of the best terrain for skiing and boarding in the country, and Whakapapa and Tūroa between them still have the highest lift-served slopes in New Zealand.

A lot has changed at Ruapehu since we first wrote this, so we have gone back through it properly for 2026: who actually runs the ski fields now, whether the Chateau is still an option (it isn’t), and what a weekend learning to ski here looks like today.

In this article

• Ruapehu: not a mountain, a volcano
• Whakapapa and Tūroa today: two ski fields, two owners
• Learning to ski or snowboard at Happy Valley
• Getting up the mountain
• Renting gear for less
• Where to eat and stay (the Chateau is out)
• The Sky Waka and Knoll Ridge Chalet
• Your questions answered

Ruapehu: not a mountain, a volcano

You might be surprised to learn that Mt Ruapehu isn’t actually a mountain, it’s a volcano. Its big eruption sequence was in 1995 and 1996, when it threw ash as far as 300km away, and it had a smaller eruption as recently as September 2007. It’s still an active, monitored volcano, so it’s worth a quick check of the alert level before you go, though this has never once stopped us enjoying a weekend there.

Ruapehu is ideal for a long weekend getaway and is reachable in around four hours from both Auckland and Wellington. There are two ski fields on the mountain, Tūroa and Whakapapa. We chose Whakapapa for this trip, partly because we’d heard good things about its beginners’ area, Happy Valley.

Photo: Earth Sciences New Zealand, formerly GNS Science

Whakapapa and Tūroa today: two ski fields, two owners

This is the bit that has genuinely changed since we wrote this article. Ruapehu Alpine Lifts, the company that ran both Whakapapa and Tūroa for around 70 years, collapsed into receivership and liquidation between 2023 and 2024, and Ruapehu came agonisingly close to having no ski season at all for a couple of winters.

The good news is that both fields are back, just under different management. Whakapapa is now run by Whakapapa Holdings Limited, which holds the Department of Conservation concession to operate it. Tūroa is run separately by Pure Tūroa Limited under its own 10-year DOC concession. Both were open and trading for the 2026 winter season.

What this means practically: there’s no longer a single combined lift pass covering both fields the way there used to be. Whakapapa season pass holders can get a discounted day rate at Tūroa, but you’re generally buying passes for each field separately now. Because pricing changes every season and the two companies set their own rates, we’re not going to quote figures here, book online at whakapapa.com or pureturoa.nz for the current rate before you go.

Learning to ski or snowboard at Happy Valley

If this is your first time skiing or snowboarding, or you haven’t been on the slopes in a while, we’d strongly recommend at least one day of lessons. Whakapapa’s Learn to Ski and Learn to Snowboard packages still bundle a lesson, a Happy Valley beginner lift pass, and boots, skis or snowboard and poles for the day, in the same spirit as when we went. Book online for the current rate, as this has moved on a fair bit since our visit.

The lessons themselves are fairly basic to start with: how to walk on the snow, how to stop (very important) and how to turn. If you’ve skied before but still feel like a learner, you’ll likely be bumped up to a “next step” style class where you work on turning and stopping more efficiently.

We can’t stress this enough: try to go on a weekday. Happy Valley was extremely busy the weekend we went, kids everywhere, adults running into kids, kids running into adults. When you’re just learning to turn, it’s hard not to bump into someone.

Top tip: before your lesson, make sure you’re well fed and watered. A couple of hours on the snow is more tiring than it looks.

Getting up the mountain

We stayed in National Park Village, about a 25 minute drive from the skiing up Bruce Road. If it snows or the weather turns, Bruce Road can close, or you might only be allowed up with snow chains and/or a 4WD vehicle. If you don’t have chains or a 4x4 (you can hire them with your hire car), you have a couple of options.

MyKiwiAdventure runs a shuttle service between National Park Village, Whakapapa Village and the top of Bruce Road. Timetables and fares change season to season, so book directly with them for current times rather than relying on old figures. Hitching is also common on this stretch, though as always, use your own judgement.

Renting gear for less

Cheapskates tip: if you’re learning or don’t own your own gear, hiring in advance saves money. Ski Biz in National Park Village, now trading as part of The Alpine Centre, still does competitively priced gear hire close to the mountain, and if you’d rather sort everything before you leave Auckland, Snowcentre in Newmarket is a long-standing option too. Compare rental packages online before you commit. We saved a decent amount hiring away from the mountain rather than on it, and if you’re up for a whole week, that adds up to more than a few lift passes.

All the gear but no idea

Foodie tip: the Station Cafe in National Park Village, right at the old train station, does a decent steak and a good wine list, and it’s back open after a few closures over the years, so it’s worth checking current hours before you go.

Where to eat and stay (the Chateau is out)

One big change: the historic Chateau Tongariro, the grand old hotel at Whakapapa Village, closed to guests for good in February 2023 after being assessed as earthquake-prone. As of 2026 its future is still being decided, restoration is on the table, but it is not currently an accommodation option, whatever you might read elsewhere.

Instead, base yourself in National Park Village, which has everything from campsites to lodges and is the closest hub to Whakapapa. If you’re skiing Tūroa instead, Ōhakune, on the other side of the mountain, is the better base and has a genuinely good après scene of its own.

The Sky Waka and Knoll Ridge Chalet

Luckily the year we’re remembering here, the weather was outstanding, though we’ve also had a trip where it was raining, windy and visibility was so low we couldn’t get up to Knoll Ridge Chalet, New Zealand’s highest cafe (I’d heard they do a very good hot chocolate).

On the good day, blue sky and clear visibility meant we could ride the Sky Waka gondola all the way up and finally have that hot chocolate, and a slice of cake. It really was worth the wait. The Sky Waka still runs year round, weather permitting, carrying walkers, skiers and sightseers up to Knoll Ridge, so check the current operating hours and conditions at whakapapa.com before you head up.

For more things to do in the wider region, our guide to Tongariro National Park covers the walks and camping spots beyond the ski season, and if you’re planning a longer trip, our New Zealand travel itineraries and tips on travelling New Zealand on a budget are both worth a read before you book.

Your questions answered

Who runs Whakapapa and Tūroa ski fields now?

Ruapehu Alpine Lifts, which ran both fields for decades, went into liquidation in 2023 to 2024. Whakapapa is now operated by Whakapapa Holdings Limited and Tūroa by Pure Tūroa Limited, two separate companies under their own DOC concessions. There is no single combined pass across both fields any more.

Is Whakapapa ski field open for the 2026 season?

Yes. Both Whakapapa and Tūroa were confirmed open and trading for winter 2026, with skiing and boarding starting from early July. Conditions and exact opening dates are snow dependent each year, so check whakapapa.com or pureturoa.nz before you travel.

Can you still stay at the Chateau Tongariro?

No. The Chateau closed to guests permanently in February 2023 due to earthquake risk. Its long-term future, restoration or otherwise, was still being decided as of mid-2026. Stay in National Park Village or Whakapapa Village for Whakapapa, or Ōhakune for Tūroa.

Do you need a 4WD or chains to drive up to Whakapapa?

Not always, but you should be prepared for it. Bruce Road, the access road to Whakapapa, can require snow chains or a 4WD vehicle in poor weather, and sometimes closes altogether. Hire chains with your rental car if you’re not driving a 4x4, or use a shuttle service instead.

Is Mt Ruapehu good for beginners?

Very. Whakapapa’s Happy Valley is a dedicated, gentle beginner area with its own lift and lesson packages, which is exactly where we learned. It gets busy on weekends, so a weekday lesson is far more relaxed.

When is the ski season at Mt Ruapehu?

Roughly late June through to October, though this is entirely snow dependent and can shift either way. Both fields publish their own opening and closing dates each year on their websites closer to the season.

We’d love to hear about your own weekend on the mountain. Get in touch through our contact page or leave a comment below.