Guest Blog: My Experience of Whangaroa Harbour, Northland

Something a little different: a guest blog post from Isaac’s sister-in-law Sally, who visited us in New Zealand and fell for Whangaroa Harbour, her favourite spot of the whole trip. We love it too, and it’s not hard to see why. Her guest post is below.

To find out more about the wider region, check out our Northland travel guide.

Guest writer: Sally Appleby

In this article

• About Whangaroa Harbour
• Staying at Sunseeker Lodge
• Exploring the harbour by boat and Kingfish Lodge
• Climbing St Paul’s Rock
• Planning your visit
• Your questions answered

About Whangaroa Harbour

The beautiful Whangaroa Harbour is an inlet on the northern coast of Northland, New Zealand. It’s around 40 minutes’ drive north of the Bay of Islands and 30 minutes south of Doubtless Bay, making it an ideal stopover for travellers after something a little different, unspoiled and unique. The harbour was formed when rising sea levels drowned a river valley around 6,000 years ago. According to Māori tradition, the waka Māhuhu-ki-te-rangi explored Whangaroa Harbour during the early Māori settlement of New Zealand, and the surrounding land was settled by descendants of the Te Māmaru and Mataatua waka crews.

Whangaroa Harbour at its best

Like the early Māori settlers, I was lucky enough to explore this tranquil region and enjoy a proper, relaxing getaway from the city.

Staying at Sunseeker Lodge

We stayed at Sunseeker Lodge, in their one bedroom apartment, separate from the communal backpacker facilities. First impressions were good: lovely views over the harbour, and a communal hot tub also looking out over the water. The apartment had comfortable furniture and local artwork. Don’t come expecting the Ritz, but do expect amazing views and genuinely friendly hosts. Sunseeker Lodge is still open and still popular with fishing charter guests and passing travellers alike, so it’s worth booking ahead in the warmer months.

The view and hot tub at Sunseeker Lodge

Exploring the harbour by boat and Kingfish Lodge

The best way to explore Whangaroa Harbour is by boat, and I’d say it’s a genuine must. We were lucky enough to go out on my sister’s partner’s family boat around the harbour, and it was the highlight of my whole trip to New Zealand. The turquoise water set against green, forested cliffs, hills and islands was an amazing sight. We spotted the rock formation known as the Dukes Nose, and discovered a waterfall running unusually hard after heavy rain the day before.

We moored up outside Kingfish Lodge, a genuinely remote waterfront hideaway that’s only reachable by boat or helicopter. Local legend has it the Spice Girls once stayed here at the height of their fame, though we can’t promise that one’s true. Kingfish Lodge still offers boutique waterfront rooms and studio apartment style accommodation on a headland above the water, and it’s a lovely spot for lunch or dinner even if you’re not staying, with a public water taxi running for day guests. It’s worth booking ahead, since access is limited and it’s genuinely popular.

We had a relaxed drink at the friendly bar area (only polite, after parking our boat there), then walked up the hill for a picnic and panoramic views over the harbour, with a bird’s eye view straight out to the harbour entrance and the sea beyond. It’s the kind of view that ends up on everyone’s camera roll.

Our group, taking in the view

Climbing St Paul’s Rock

On our last day, we climbed St Paul’s Rock, the highest point we could reach, for 360 degree views over everywhere we’d explored. It’s genuinely mind-blowing. The walk to the top takes around 20 to 30 minutes, but it’s steep, and the last stretch involves scrambling up bare rock using a chain handrail that DOC has bolted in for exactly that purpose. This one isn’t for the faint-hearted, and there are unfenced drop-offs at the summit, so take care and keep an eye on children. But when you reach the top and take in those idyllic views, the climb is absolutely worth it. It’s a special place to stop, reflect, and appreciate land that’s been cared for since long before any of us arrived.

The track starts from the car park at the end of Old Hospital Road in Whangaroa village, and it’s still open and maintained by the Department of Conservation.

Planning your visit

I’d highly recommend a visit to Whangaroa Harbour. It still has that wow factor, and it feels far less crowded than the better-known spots further south in the Bay of Islands.

Top tip: if you need somewhere to stay, book your accommodation in advance. It’s easy to underestimate how busy New Zealand gets between September and March each year. We’d suggest checking out BookaBach (private homes that often don’t show up on Airbnb) or this Far North accommodation link to check instant availability of motels, hotels and guest houses in the area.

If you’re planning a longer trip around the north, our Bay of Islands travel guide and our Northland guide will help you build Whangaroa into a wider Far North itinerary, and our New Zealand itineraries hub has full route ideas if you’re short on time. If you’ve got a self-contained vehicle, freedom camping is a lovely, low-cost way to base yourself around the harbour for a few nights.

Your questions answered

How do you get to Whangaroa Harbour? Whangaroa is around 40 minutes’ drive north of the Bay of Islands and about 30 minutes south of Doubtless Bay, just off State Highway 10. It’s an easy detour if you’re heading up towards Kerikeri, Mangonui or Cape Reinga.

Is Kingfish Lodge open to day visitors, or only overnight guests? Kingfish Lodge welcomes day visitors for lunch and dinner as well as overnight guests, with a public water taxi service for those without their own boat. Booking ahead is recommended, since access is limited to boat or helicopter only.

How hard is the St Paul’s Rock walk? It’s short, around 20 to 30 minutes each way, but steep, with a chain-assisted rock scramble on the final section and no safety barriers at the summit. A reasonable level of fitness and sturdy footwear are recommended, and it’s not ideal for very young children.

What’s the best way to explore Whangaroa Harbour? By boat, if you can arrange it, whether that’s a friend’s boat, a fishing charter, or a water taxi to Kingfish Lodge. If you don’t have access to a boat, the St Paul’s Rock walk and the village itself still give you a real sense of the harbour.

When is the best time to visit Whangaroa? Like most of Northland, the warmer months from December to March are busiest and give you the best swimming and boating weather. Shoulder season (October, November, April) is quieter and still pleasant.

Have your own Whangaroa Harbour story or tip? We’d love to hear it. Get in touch with us here.